S2.29 - Christmas in the BVIs: Sailing Into Holiday Paradise

Dec 21 – Onward to the British Virgin Islands

We set off for the BVIs at 7am, slipping away before any marina charges could find us. Our destination: Virgin Gorda, a 20-hour trip with the option to stop for a mooring ball at Saba Rock’s Well’s Bay along the way. Regardless of what the day might throw at us, food was prepped, rest was banked, and excitement was bubbling over—we’ve been dreaming about this arrival for so long.

The seas had laid down, and with only 10 knots of wind, it wasn’t a sailing day. Instead, we motored past St. Kitts.

Fun Fact Sidebar:
St. Kitts is home to the country’s highest peak, Mount Liamuiga, and is known for its striking black volcanic sand beaches.

With smooth seas and sunshine on our side,

we pressed on overnight rather than stopping at Saba Rock.

The only challenge was keeping our speed down so as not to arrive in the dark—BVIs have narrow entrances best left for daylight navigation.

Dec 22 – Virgin Gorda Arrival

We arrived just before sunrise, sipping morning coffees while drifting until daylight revealed the best approach.

Good thing we waited—the route we originally planned was north of “Round Rock”,

..but with sunlight upon us and further investigation of our charts,

it was evident, the wiser choice was taking the southern way around.

At 7am, we dropped anchor at Valley Trunk Bay, Virgin Gorda.

A second pot of coffee, a refreshing swim in crystal-clear water, and prepping fenders for docking, we headed for Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor for fuel and a day or two of marina life.

Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor greeted us with a finger slip and plenty of bureaucracy. Convincing immigration that our last destination where we stepped off the boat was Saint Lucia, and not St. Martin was only the beginning (Marigot Bay is in Saint Lucia, not St. Martin was a hard concept for them to grasp!). Add a hot, humid kilometer walk for more paperwork, cash-only fees ($50 Customs, $40 Immigration, $45 Park fees), and a famously prickly officer, and check-in became an exercise in patience. At least it got me off the boat for a leg stretch when I had to run more cash out to Ryan.

… Thank goodness, these cuties perched on the marina lawn reminding us that “When life gives you a broken-down Beetle, turn it into an under-the-sea flower garden!” 🌊🐠🌺

After a round of deep-cleaning Lucky Enough inside and out, exhaustion from our overnight passage caught up with us. A shower and early dinner won out over naps, and we headed to the Bath & Turtle Rendezvous Bar which “…has been an icon in Virgin Gorda and Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor for years. Sailors, charters, tourists, and locals have shared precious moments in this charming place.” There, we met Rose, the legendary New Yorker who owns the place, and joined in on her 9th annual Caribbean-vibe Christmas party.

Sushi, ribs, boom boxes, a parade of decorated trucks, and live reggae? Yes, please. I was in my happy place.

Dec 23 – The Bitter End Magic

Tempted to linger in Virgin Gorda, we instead steered Lucky Enough toward the Bitter End Yacht Club, a storied, water-access-only resort we’d heard whispers about for years. Its name comes from a nautical term (the very end of a rope line) and its fitting location at the edge of the island before the open sea.

En route, we passed Moskito Island—Richard Branson’s ultra-exclusive retreat of villas that house up to 22 guests.

—then Prickly Pear Island…and then, the showstopper: the Black Pearl, a $200M, 350-foot sailing yacht with a futuristic DynaRig mast system and hybrid propulsion. Oh, and a helipad.

We grabbed mooring ball #28 and launched Ugh to explore “The Bitter End".

Paradise delivered: sandy beaches, waterfront dining, and holiday cheer everywhere.

At nightfall, Black Pearl blew her horn 3 times. We looked up to see her Christmas lights switched on, a towering mast-to-mast display that lit the bay like a Christmas tree. Magical.

Dec 24 – Christmas Eve by the Sea

Christmas Eve began with a gentle rain shower rinsing Lucky Enough clean. This bay had such a great vibe to it, we really wanted to spend another night.

While our assigned ball #28 was spoken for today, we learned a secret: the many white mooring balls scattered about are free. We snagged #46, with no neighbors in sight—our own slice of paradise.

A dinghy tour revealed countless anchoring opportunities - a good note to keep for our next visit. A nap recharged us and a massage at the Saba Rock Resort elevated the holiday spirit. Lunch at tiny Saba Rock (1.5 acres of island charm) meant wings, conch ceviche, and plenty of “yum.” Dinner was simple ham-and-cheese melts back onboard, but entertainment came in the form of a Christmas dinghy parade—boats lit up and full of cheer, with Black Pearl glowing in the background. To top it off, a turtle circled our underwater lights before bed. All I wanted for Christmas, right there.

Dec 25 – A Christmas Rainbow

Merry Christmas!
🎄🎅🏻🧑🏻‍🎄🇻🇬🎄

At 7:30am Christmas morning, we reluctantly left Bitter End under a soft rain,

spotting a rainbow arching over the uninhabited subgroup of uninhabited islands called “the Dogs” —a famous diving area. There is so much more to discover out here!

We anchored at Nail Bay, Virgin Gorda, near the scenic “99 Steps Trailhead,” set up our canopy, and celebrated Christmas Day with a Canadian twist:

Beer mixed with Clamato juice,

better known as “Beer & Clam”.

Our Christmas feast? A nacho platter.

It may not sound traditional, but after months without proper salsa or tortilla chips, it was simply perfection.

Dec 26 – Boxing Day at Jost van Dyke

Boxing Day brought us to Jost van Dyke, an island we’ve long associated with Kenny Chesney songs and beachy dreams. Passing through Sir Francis Drake Channel and the Virgin Islands National Park, we were mesmerized by postcard-perfect resorts and private coves.