S2.28 - Sailing into the Leeward Islands of the Lesser Antilles
Dec 18 – Caribbean Car Wash & the Dominica Passage
We left anchorage at about 6:30am, raising the main sail for a soggy motor sail—our own version of a Caribbean car wash.
Departing Dominica prior to the rain.
By 8:03am, we were finally sailing. Winds were unpredictable, gusting up to 26 knots through the Dominica Passage towards the Island of Guadaloupe (beginning of the Leeward Islands), so we reefed the main and furled the Genoa five turns. The rudders couldn’t quite keep up with the gusts, leaving Ryan to hand-steer through the squalls.
After seven long hours, we dropped anchor at Petit Anse just in time for a peaceful sunset.
With a big blow forecasted, we decided to stay a couple of nights. Full Circle III was on a two-day passage behind us and might be close by in the morning—we extended an invite for them to pull in and wait out the storm together.
Fun Fact Sidebar:
Guadeloupe, a French overseas region, is shaped like a butterfly with two main islands—Grande-Terre and Basse-Terre—separated by the Salée River. Highlights include sugarcane fields, Carbet Falls, and La Grande Soufrière volcano. Smaller islands like Marie-Galante and La Désirade add to its charm.
Dec 19 – Gusts, Good Friends & Carlsberg
At 5:30am, 30-knot gusts had us up and scrambling to tie down the main sail (which, in retrospect, we should have done last night). Just as we secured it, our anchor alarm sounded—we were dragging! Luckily, the anchor reset itself within a few meters in.
By 7am, coffees in hand and crises avoided, we were thrilled to see Full Circle III appear around the corner, having sailed overnight from St. Lucia to also wait out the storm.
After some much-needed rest, they dinghied over for coffee and lunch.
Later, Ryan and I snuck Ugh into a “no dinghies” dock for a quick supermarket run—where Ryan’s day was made by finding Carlsberg beer, a Danish pilsner he’s fond of but hadn’t seen in quite some time. Judi and Al returned in the evening for dinner, and we finally formally celebrated our crossings together, swapping stories and laughter.
That night, under our underwater lights, several ‘big fish’ circled—definitely discouraging a sunset dip.
Swirling winds kept us doing 360’s around our anchor all night. Left us wondering what kind of mess we might wake up to?... and therefore making for somewhat of a restless night.
Still, tomorrow promised better weather, and the long-awaited buddy-boat adventure with Full Circle III.
Dec 20 – Lobster Trap Rescue & Buddy-Boat Sailing
At 6am, we were up and getting ready for a 7:00am “wheels up” departure.
A quick check of our anchor pro confirmed Lucky Enough auditioned for an Etch-A-Sketch competition last night. 🙈
Just as we pulled anchor, FCIII found themselves fouled in a mess of lobster traps!!
Ryan, ever the fearless swimmer, dove in to help free them. Since our anchor was already up, my job was to keep Lucky Enough from inadvertently getting our engines caught in the same maze of traps discreetly scattered around the bay. After 20 minutes of cutting lines and treading water, their anchor was clear. I got Ryan safely back on Lucky enough, and we were finally both underway.
Sailing side by side, chatting over the radio about wind, sails and trim, felt like a dream. Fittingly, the song “Follow You Follow Me” by Genesis played in the background.
Our GPS even glitched for a while, dropping us off AIS, but Ryan sorted it quickly.
Sailing past Montserrat, we spotted steam rising from volcanic vents
—a reminder of the island’s dramatic history.
Fun Fact Sidebar:
Montserrat is famous for Plymouth, a capital city abandoned due to volcanic eruptions, and for being the only place outside Ireland where St. Patrick’s Day is a national holiday, blending Irish and African traditions.
Sadly, by late afternoon, we parted ways—FCIII bound for Saint Martin, us toward Saint Kitts.
By evening, we reached Nevis, carefully navigating patches where depths plunged from 500m to as little as 16m.
Fun Fact Sidebar:
Nevis is that it is the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, one of the founding fathers of the United States, and visitors can tour the Nevis Museum of History at his birthplace.
Another interesting fact is Spanish explorers once named this island ‘Our Lady of the Snows’ because the ever-present clouds draped over Nevis Peak looked like snowy caps in a tropical setting.
We were lucky enough to capture the very same illusion
—clouds crowning the peak, glowing under a fiery Caribbean sunset.
We anchored at Pinneys Beach just after sunset, turning on underwater lights to find ourselves surrounded by millions of jumping fish. Apologies video didn’t turn out. The sight was spectacular—like a living fireworks show in the sea.
