S2.17 - From Canet to Aguadulce: Squalls, Swells & Surprises
Sept 18 – Goodbye Canet, Hello Spain
We left Canet-en-Rousillion today, grateful to Jean-Michel and his team at Privilège, Denis and Pascal from BMS (Boat Management & Services), Jean-Baptist (General Mechanic), Philip from C2 Marine (Generator & Engine servicing), and Sébastien Azure from Azure Boat Services (Watermaker Dealer) for all their help. Each provided specialized expertise with professionalism and courtesy, and we would confidently recommend their services to anyone considering a maintenance stop here.
After fueling up, we raised the main and Genoa and enjoyed peaceful sailing at 5.5 knots with engines off—the sound of true bliss.
Later in the day, we tried for Aguafreda but were met with brutal swells.
The morning chill leaving Canet had me digging out my moccasins to keep my toes warm at the helm.
Who knew my cozy slippers would double as sailing gear? Fashion meets function on the high seas!
With little protection to anchor along the Spanish coast, we still took time to admire its beauty as we sailed by…,
…and pushed onward finding refuge at the long, sandy Bahia de Palamós. I was not feeling well most of the day, so Byron stepped in for anchoring duties and raised the Spanish flag. Not the smoothest night’s sleep, but at least we were safely anchored.
Finding Reprieve at Bahia de Palamós
Sept 19 – Stormy Skies and Sunset Fire
Heading towards a marina near Barcelona today for some rest. Along the way, we spotted a waterspout 👀 and dodged a few squalls, though the following seas made for a much more comfortable ride.
Ryan found Port Masnou Marina, and we docked around 5:30pm. Restaurants didn’t open until 8:00pm, so we opted to eat aboard—but not before capturing fiery sunset photos that made the sky look ablaze.
Sept 20 – Barcelona Delights
A glorious sunrise greeted us, and we decided to stay an extra day before our big passage. After meal-prepping (sausage, beef, chicken thighs, and homemade mac & cheese—fuel for sailors!), we hopped the train to Barcelona. Byron treated us to wine at Cot Restaurant before revisiting Sagrada Familia to compare photos from 7 years ago.
Construction started way back in 1882, and when Gaudí took it over the following year, he basically turned it into his life’s work. Fast forward more than 140 years and… yep, still not done. (Clearly, no one’s stressing deadlines in Barcelona.) We did notice the new center steeple has popped up since our last visit—along with towers, details, sculptures—so it’s kind of like watching the world’s slowest but most spectacular home renovation project.
We wandered the Gothic Quarter for our traditional donair at Sunrise Doner Kebabs, then capped the day with pedicures at Only Nails (Ryan’s “official first” pedicure spot when we were here 7 years ago). Early night ahead—our longest sail of the season so far awaited!
Sept 21 – Barcelona Farewell, Code D Day
After pancake breakfast, we left the dock at 9:30am, bidding farewell to Barcelona. With the Sagrada Familia still visible behind us, we set off on a ~185nm passage.
Farewell for now Barcelona!
The day brought storm clouds, rain, thunder, lightning… and, thankfully, a rainbow. 🌈
We had Code D up all day, making great speed—averaging 7.7 knots, topping at 9.7 knots.
We dropped the sail at 8:30pm as night shifts began, ready for what lay ahead.
Sept 22 – Squalls, Seas & Surprise Guests
Night passage: bumpy but tolerable. After pancakes, sausage, showers, and rotating naps, the day felt brighter with a beautiful sunrise.
By afternoon, we rounded corner #3—Cap de Saint Marti—officially starting our “countdown of corners” as we near the end of our Mediterranean journey.
Each bend along the coast now feels like a milestone, marking the beginning of the end of this chapter.
Here’s a shot of where we were in relation to Madrid, just to put things in perspective.
As winds dropped and seas calmed, we all enjoyed a glass of “patio wine” as Lucky Enough gently rode the waves in a gentle glide. These evenings are so special.
But night brought a nasty turn—2.9-knot current and 11 knots on our nose. My Bose headphones saved my sanity by drowning out the pounding seas with music and audiobooks.
The real shock came when the Algerian Coast Guard crept up in the dark—lights off, then a flashlight straight into our cockpit! Byron was on watch, Ryan was on the salon bed, and luckily (for me), I had just gone off shift. Ryan shot up like a flash. They slowed, then left. Likely scanning for smugglers, but very unsettling nonetheless.
Sept 23 – Chasing Shelter
Ryan kindly let me skip my 4–6am watch. By morning we’d rounded Corner #2 in our countdown—Cabo de Palos (Cartagena)—with still 97 miles to go.
Because our speed took such a hit during the night, our ETA into Aguadulce was looking like 2:00am tomorrow. Since arriving at a marina in the dark isn’t exactly our idea of fun, we decided instead to find a place to anchor before sunset and continue on the following morning.
The seas stayed pretty sporty all day, but by evening we tapped out at Carboneras. What a relief—a calm, quiet anchorage and the best sleep we’d had in days.
Arriving at Caboneras
Sept 24 – The Final Stretch to Aguadulce
After a proper sleep-in and breakfast burritos, we pushed off at 8:30am for our final 40-ish miles.
Morning departure from Caborneras
By noon, we were once again bashing swell and current, but at 12:22pm we rounded our 3rd and final corner at Roquetas de Mar and finally arrived in Aguadulce. Lucky Enough had entered the Med 464 days ago (Season 1, Episode 9).
Final 3rd corner as we depart the Mediterranean.
After fueling, we were instructed to remain tied to the fuel dock for the night. The marina was full—I guess everyone was running from the swell. It was so nice to be back at this marina. We had had great service here last June when Luis and his team at Sportnautica Almeria helped us out with maintenance and our lost rudders.
We got a little chuckle at this fun racecar-looking watercraft parked beside us for entertainment.
Tomorrow, Parasailor training begins. Time to trade squalls for some new sailing skills!